TEKST DOSTĘPNY TAKŻE PO POLSKU
Durban is one of the largest cities in South Africa, second after Johannesburg industrial center and one of the most popular tourist sport. Metropolis has approx. 3.5 mn inhabitants. The city is famous for its beautiful sandy beaches and excellent conditions for surfing, but for tourists perhaps more important is the opportunity to learn about indigenous peoples, namely Zulu. All this is ahead of us...
The plane lands in Durban on Thursday, 26 February at 18.20. At the King Shaka International Airport everything runs smoothly, we pick up our luggage, go through security check and a heat scanner – to exclude persons with fever (Ebola!), we exchange some money.
We bought a transfer to the city at the travel agency along with a flight. When we get to their hotel, we will part and follow our own way. The rest will do the program prepared by the travel agency. The tour guide refers them their program and gives them some advice. Not everything she says – as it will later turn out – is true. For example, she says that they can exchange money only at the bank, because there are no currency exchanges here. Nonsense, there are exchange offices and sometimes they have better rates than banks... You just have to remember that whenever you exchange the money you will have to show them your passport and give them some details so that they could register you.
We get off the bus and now we have to manage by ourselves. I check the plan I made at home. Next to the hotel there should be a stop of the bus running along the beaches, which should take us to our hotel. There is a bus stop! Well, okay, let's ask someone if that's the right one. A woman we ask seems very surprised that two white tourists ask for public transport. A moment later, she says smiling: "Since it's near I'll take you there!"
We look at each other in amazement: "That's a good start!" There's nothing as good for a beginning of a trip than a helpful native. After a few minutes we drive into total darkness. "Well, well, welcome to Africa!" – I murmur to myself. Our temporary driver explains: "The power is out again. It happens" – she comments. "It happens?" – we look at each other. We have been so surprised by her kindness, that when we arrive we don't even ask her name. Besides, at this very moment the lights flare around. And with them there return our optimism. (Until the end of our stay we haven't experienced any problems with electricy, so perhaps it doesn't happen so often.)
Self-catering option
Upon entering our enthusiasm again slightly drops. The receptionist can't find our reservation. He looks for it in several drawers, a few notebooks, and... nothing. Our confirmation from booking.com means little to him. Can he check in his computer, please? No, it doesn't work yet, because there was no electricity...
I recall that because of the problems with a booking (a specific studio with kitchenette) I have a confirmation sent by their office. The clerk brightens up: "Very well, that's it." We get the keys.
In fact, there were two confirmations. The first one confirmed my reservation, the second told that we'll need to change the room in the middle of our stay. Cautiously I don't show him the latter. It will turn out that the change won't be necessary.
We go up to the seventh floor. The room is exactly as described on the website and so are the pictures (which rarely happens), clean, with all the appliances necessary in the "self-catering" option. Finally, we can relax. Now quickly to the grocery on the ground floor to buy something to eat. We are lucky, because in the same building there is a very popular store, called "Kwik Spar", open daily (including Sundays) from 6 to 21.
Time for a first cup of coffee in a new place...
Generally, 10 South hotel offers a decent standard, it's clean, rooms are cleaned every day, properly. There's a place for a braai – that is barbecue, which is very popular in South Africa, children's area, small swimming pool, sauna, gym, etc.
However, two things should be improved: wi-fi speed – theoretically you can use it in the hotel, but in practice it's very slow and it's nearly useless, but above all they should do something with the elevators. The building has 15 floors, and during our week-long stay only one of them was operating, the others worked only half a day for one day. This caused annoyance among visitors, and in my case – a little problem with a transfer to the airport. When a bus came to pick me, the receptionist called to my room, but I didn't answer because I just left. I waited for a few minutes for the elevator and when I got down, the bus was gone... Luckily, I managed to convince the driver to return...
Moving around
Public transport in Durban virtually doesn't exist, except for so called People Mover. It has two lines: City Loop runs circuitous route in the city center, passing through the most interesting places for tourists and Beach Line runs through the northern and southern beaches. Single ticket costs R5,50. I didn't need to use it so I can't say anything more about it.Generally, however, the locals use their cars or taxis – that is minibuses plying a few designated routes, with no fixed schedule, but often enough not to bother about it.
For further routes, for example to shopping centers in the suburbs or in the neighboring towns, the locals advise to rent a car or to take a regular taxi, but not a minibus. The thing is that their drivers take for nothing provisions and restrictions of speed, apparently there happen collisions and accidents.
We took a few good walks in Durban, even longer that an hour, to places like for example Musgrave shopping center in the suburbs. When I told this to one of my friends, he tapped his forehead: "And you went there on foot?" It's such a dangerous neighborhood. Um, really? Well, nothing seemed to indicate that, aside from the wire-barbed fences around the houses...
Generally, at least during the day, the city doesn't differ from European metropolies, of course, except the fact that in Durban there live mainly black people, there is also a large Indian diaspora. I got the impression that the only white people I saw, were either homeless or bums... Probably unfair judgment, but that's was I saw.
Generally I have an impression that people are open and friendly, smiling and always eager to help – to show you the way, a store or a bank. There are no hustlers, no one pulls you to their store or a stall. Yet, many goods have set prices. For tourists it make things significantly easier, especially when you remember tedious haggling about everything in India or Morocco, not to mention Egypt, where – if they could – they would take the last penny from you.
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| Nice and neat promenade |
Tourists usually move only within the hotels located along the coastline. That was my impression. There are several hotels but you can't see their guests on the promenade. Where are all the tourists? Let them regret! The so-called Golden Mile is a several kilometers long, beautiful and well-maintained promenade, running along the beaches, from South Beach in the south to Suncoast Casino and Entertainment World in the north. It's a popular place for walking, but mostly for the locals. It comes alive in the evenings, when groups of young people come here to meet up and listen to the music played by audio systems of their cars. A lot of people do jogging. Couples spend romantic evenings strolling along the piers.
However, although the promenade is nice and neat, there are scarce places here where you can sit in the evening for a coffee or a beer; probably that's why there are no such crowds here as on the promenades in European cities.
Almost everywhere you can see public security staff. Many a times I walked along the Golden Mile until midnight, without fear that something bad will happen. I must admit that at least this part of the city is relatively safe.
Sightseeing
Tourist Information Office of the KwaZulu-Natal region is located in the center of Durban, at 160 Monty Naicker Rd. The staff is very nice, and above all, competent. They patiently answer all the questions, even those about shopping centers. You can book a tour here, a transfer to the airport etc. They have wide selection of maps, brochures and flyers. |
| uShaka Wet'n'Wild - aqua park |
Durban doesn't have much to offer when it comes to sightseeing. Actually the only to attract tourists is uShaka Marine World: www.ushakamarineworld.co.za, which occupies 16 hectares on the strip of land between the beaches and the harbor; it's nicely decorated with thoughtfully designed vegetation and elements of small architecture.
The complex is divided into four parts:
- uShaka Sea World – the fifth largest aquarium in the world, open: Mon-Sun 9-17
- uShaka Wet'n'Wild – water park, open in high season: Mon-Sun 10-17, low season: Wed-Fri 10-17, Sat-Sun 9-17
- uShaka Beach – free admission,
- uShaka Village Walk – shopping center and restaurants in the open; guidebooks say it reminds a traditional Zulu village...
Entry to Sea World and Wet'n'Wild costs R149 each; if someone wants to visit both – it's better to buy a combo ticket for R199.
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| In the aquarium of uShaka Sea World |
We spend several hours in uShaka, there's so much to do here. First, the aquarium, made in the wreck of an old ship which in itself is quite an attraction. They probably have here all the species living in the surrounding waters of the Atlantic and Indian oceans, from small orange clownfish (well-known from "Finding Nemo" movie), to sea turtles, to sharks, not to mention sea anemones, shellfish and coral reefs. Everything is well described, including educational elements.
One can admire seals and penguins here and there's also a dolphinarium. We participate in a show with these water mammals – included in the ticket price! The show is amazing and makes this morning unforgettable.
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| Playing with dolphins in uShaka |
For bird lovers Umgeni River Bird Park may be an interesting place to go: www.umgeniriverbirdpark.co.za. There are more than 700 birds representing 180 species there. It is located in an old quarry, at 490 Riverside Rd, on the banks of the Umgeni River. Open daily 9-17; admission: R50; free bird show: Tue-Sun 11, 14. However, it's not easy to get there, unless you take a taxi, but after having heard many bad opinions about them, I decide not to take the risk, and I must do without this attraction.
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| Less and less huts in the 1000 Hills Valley are made of straw |
Certainly, one must not pass a trip to the Valley of 1000 Hills: www.1000hillstourism.co.za. Again, if an individual tourist wants to go there, they must rent a car or take a taxi, which is not cheap, as it is approx. 20 km from the city. Not wanting to rent a car, we buy a tour package at a local tour agency. At kwaZulu-Natal info point they recommend Kude Travel & Tours and a guide named Bheki, they even help us to book this trip. We pay R750 per person, for that price we get an "intimate" possibility to go there just the two of us, well, comfort costs. A little pricey, but considering the route forth and back, a visit to the Zulu village, traditional dance show, visit to crocodiles and snakes farms, dinner plus about a two-hour tour around the valley, we decide on this option.
Theoretically Phezulu ticket, including a dance show, crocodiles and snakes farm costs R140, which is much cheaper, but you still need to pay for transportation to and fro, food, a tour of the valley; even if a little overpaid, I think this trip was worth the money.
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| Traditional dance show |
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| Zulu hut made of tree branches and straw |
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| Time for photos with tourists... |
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| Preparing food |
In general, I think the trip was worth the price, since Bheki really did his best that we were satisfied with the trip. A visit to the Zulu village was interesting. We saw a "traditional" household, dance show to celebrate the betrothal and marriage, we heard many stories about local life, traditions and ceremonies.
Unforgettable experience was given us during a visit to the crocodile farm, where they have several of these giant reptiles. I even had the opportunity to caress a tiny, several weeks old crocodile. Then in the snakes farm I could also hold a true boa snake for a while. I survived... The stories told by the farm supervisor froze the blood in my veins, especially those about deadly snake venoms, with that of green mamba in particular.
After these emotions, Bheki takes us for a long drive around villages in the valley, telling exciting stories about everyday life here; then we stop for a lunch in a small place where they serve traditional Zulu cuisine.
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| At the crocodiles farm |
We return to the hotel in the afternoon, a little tired, but conscious that we have seen and touched something exotic, something we won't find at home, in Europe.
Swimming means surfing
The beaches are well marked, some of them are guarded, but there are scarce places where you can sit for a coffee or a snack. You must remember that and it's better to take some croissants and something to drink when you go to the beach.
Churches
For those for whom attending a Sunday service is a must, these two places offer masses in the Catholic rite:Emmanuel Cathedral, 48 Cathedral Rd: Sat 17.30 (English), Sun 7.45 (English), 9.45 (bilingual), 11.45 (Zulu)
St. Peter church, 360 Mahatma Gandhi / Point Rd: Sat 17.30, Sun 7.30, 9.30, 12
Shopping
In Durban, as in any big city, you can buy almost anything. Everyone will find something for themselves – from traditional souvenirs, to decorations and costumes, to the goods of recognized global brands. There are many department stores here, but if you want to go to a decent mall, you have to go a few kilometers out of town. The most famous and popular ones are: Musgrave Centre (this one is located in the suburbs of Durban), Pavillion Shopping Centre – in the town of Westville, approx. 15 km from the city and the Gateway in Umhlanga – approx. 20 km from the city.It's worth to mention also the Victoria Street Market, which is actually a market hall, where they sell everything you can imagine. This place is a domain of Indian immigrants, so you can buy the real spices from India there!
Time to move on
Here comes the last day of our stay in Durban. In the tourist information office we were advised to take Airport Bus Transportation shuttle bus: www.airportbustransport.co.za; their minibuses depart from the city center for the King Shaka International Airport at 4.30 and from 6.00 to 20.00, every hour on the hour; the journey takes approx. 30 minutes; ticket: R80, you pay directly to the driver. Note: the transfer must be booked in advance, you can do it by phone: tel. 0027 31-4651660, 4655573, tel. kom. 0823409990 or e-mail: airportbus@mweb.co.za.At the airport everything goes smoothly. Mango line plane takes off on time, in two hours time we will land in Cape Town...
You fill find some short clips from the trip to South Africa on the official Multigato You Tube channel
Read also:
South Africa – intro